Searching for Lost History in the Bradshaws

In my last blog post I talked about becoming aware that one of the more interesting spots in my trail travels was, in fact, a old ranch site from the 1880's.
There was also talk of some ruins at the site...so for the days ride I decided to check out some history along Senator Highway and the surrounding area. The area at "Old Dandrea ranch" and a site known as Goodwin were on the list as well as anything else I came across.

Fall had once again touched the area...to stay it seems now a few days later. The temps at the elevations in the Bradshaws were cold enough to warrant a warm coat from the 1st turn of the key and throughout the day.
So into the chilly air I headed, passing many historic landmarks. Over the gap between Mt Tritle and Mt Union, through creeks and hitting side trails to see what is what.

After nearly being hit by someone in a Can-am SxS hauling it pretty good, I stopped just north of Palace Station to check out the entrance to a single track trail. It seems whenever I try to find some information on some obscure trail in the 'shaws, I am directed to ADVrider where I find someone has ridden a goat-path through the chaparral and documented it. Seems like it is somewhat of a contest to find some of the older trail signs hidden deep in the back-country. I snapped a pic of one that doesn't require a vehicle 40" narrower than my Pioneer, and then moved on after taking an extended break. Laid-back was the theme for the day.

According to the single-track guys, these are scattered
through the deepest parts of the Bradshaws.

After passing Palace Station and crossing the ridge, I checked out some side trails near the 50" restricted FS 83. Orofino and Mastadon mines are located in this general area, but I followed a well worn 2-track in the direction of Turkey Creek until it ended at 2 or more un-named horizontal shafts along with some debris. Here, again, the trail went to single track.

Un-named shaft near Senator hwy.

Reversing course back to Senator hwy and heading further south, I made an attempt to find the former site of Goodwin.
Pictures exist of ruins at this site, but in a short search I found none. More foot time may be necessary to find these, but as I said ...laid back was the theme for the day, so I will revisit this area when I am feeling a little more exercisey.

Interestingly enough, just a few hundred yards to the east on a trail marked 9405T, I did  find some signs of former habitation, yet nothing exists on any topo map. Perhaps this was on the outer edge on Goodwin?

Top and Bottom: Ruins on 9405T. The edge of Goodwin?

Again back to Senator and further south to explore some side trails, but nothing of real interest here. Getting a little late in the day, I decided to head back for my second goal of the day:The Dandrea ranch site. So back to the north on Senator hwy.

I should note something interesting here: just north of the Goodwin site is a gated road marked FS 84 on maps and I have never seen this gate open. I have always been curious about it, and riding by I finally remembered to look at it on a map. It goes north-east to an area marked as "Dandrea"on topo maps. Looking at satellite views, there appear to be buildings of some sort in the area. I wonder if the family decided to keep a portion of the ranch when it was sold, and still retains ownership? There also appears to be a trail in from the north, so if it isn't closed or posted, I will check it out in time.

But for now its back to 9404X to 706 and the "old" Dandrea ranch site. The sun was getting low when I finally located the ruins of the old homestead...

Just below the front wheel is what looks to be an old fireplace..and a bunch of rusty wire.

Turns out they were located just across from the rock-wall lined field where I often like to stop.

Autumn sun and a lot of hard work.

I didn't linger too long here as the sun was getting very low and I still had one agenda, so on up to 706 and the 5 points area for a quick lunch. Big bug mesa is east, and there is a northern trail off the main road which I had never done.

Two words describe this trail: rocks, mud. Recent rains had little impact on the other areas I had ridden today, but FS 103A had multiple mud holes...some of which were pretty deep. Add to that rock gardens for hundreds of yards. 

This trail ends at the top of a mesa looking towards the upper end of Black canyon to the east. The views were great. Not worth the jarring ride...but great nonetheless. 

Somewhere out there is I-17.

After snapping a few pics and taking it in for a few minutes I headed back for the 5 points...knowing that I was in for a bumpy ride. On the way, the sun disappeared behind Mt Union and the temps dropped...though still comfortable with a jacket. The odd cow standing in the pines didn't seem to mind, nor did i. 

Back at the 5 points with darkness closing in, I start the climb up FS 284, which has become almost a every-ride ritual. Indeed, this trail is a favorite..for no real reason. Especially in the dark.

I sometimes wonder if I sabotage myself. I don't really mean to stay out so late...but I have always loved riding at night, and the same was true for street bikes when I had one. Maybe its the headlights bouncing off moths...or the glowing eyes that sometimes appear in the darkness. Maybe its the notion that the darkness somehow protects you from what might be there, just out of view. 

Whatever it is, on this night I cruise along Mt Union without a care. Past old mines, trickling creeks, and sheer drops I probably should have better light for. Then on home. Eager to do it again.

A Touch of Fall

As we loaded up the Pioneer with supplies, the air had already taken on a chill I hadn't felt for months. We were taking my second youngest niece on her very 1st ride... and we got a late start as well, but that's Okay. We didn't want to venture too far from the staging area...lest she decide off-roading is not her thing, mid-flight.

I decided we would ride around the Mt Union area and take in the scent of pines, stop for "adventure" breaks for the kids, and just generally not get too caught up in racking up miles just for the sake of riding. Sometimes its nice just to sit and enjoy the back country. So we left the vehicle and headed up Senator highway for some recreational trail riding.

I really love this area. History is around every turn, with old mines dotting topo maps, and the remains of more than a century of back-breaking effort to extract the mineral wealth from the area. It's also home to some truly expensive real estate and homes.

Old mines. This area is littered with them.

After climbing Senator hwy to its' split with Poland road, we take a right and continue on Senator...but our trip will make a loop and bring us back to the same spot via Poland road. Shortly thereafter is a right turn on Golden Eagle rd and another turn left on FS81.

This road runs out a ridge line to the south-east for a few miles. The 1st few are shaded by heavy pine cover and the blanket of needles that accompany them. A strange site in a state defined by harsh deserts in the minds of most people...but not uncommon, actually.

Later on, the mountains become barren and much evidence of wind storms and wood harvesting is encountered. Recent rains have caused a much thicker and greener than usual undergrowth..and this spot could be mistaken for a number of areas back home in NC.
Eventually, this trail turns into single track for 2 wheeled transport. Turns out this area ( the Bradshaw mountains ) is littered with miles of ST, and they represent what must be the oldest trails in the area NOT made for horses or wagons. Reading some of the posts at ADVRider will reveal the depth of these trails, and the few hardcore souls who keep them alive. Trail history? Fascinating!

Pioneer, just yards from being about 40" too wide to continue.

After taking in the sights for a time, we reverse course back to Senator hwy and head on to Palace station and over the ridge past the long-departed Goodwin town-site where the road from Mayer joins. Another break for lunch for my new favorite trail food...cold spaghetti and meat-balls from Mr Boyardee. We spend some time here just letting the kids explore and play in Turkey creek. Remnants of mining exist all around us...both old and new.

This is about as far from the vehicle as we should go today, so we head back up Senator to a lesser used side trail marked as 9404* ( * various letters ). Unlike Senator hwy, this is a real trail that goes down to Turkey creek and follows its' drainage to the north. SxS width just before the creek thanks to erosion. ATV width in another 5-10 years...unless some roadwork happens. This trail is narrow and rutted while climbing across a ridge and into a long flat basin.This area looked to have been cleared and planted at some point. Rock walls also line one of the pastures along with remnants of barbed wire, flanked to the north by a small creek.

Lots of work.

Again, we let the kids explore for a while, climbing rock walls, picking flowers, fighting dragons. I went down to the trail to take a photo back into the field and pondered the scene. Old works in an ancient land, slowly being erased by the passage of time.
I grew curious about this area and the obvious work that went on here, and discovered that this was the site of the Dandrea Ranch with orchards...and apparently some ruins that I haven't yet seen. Road trip!
Also...that creek apparently has mercury in it!

Somewhere this trail turns into FS 706 and comes out in an area known as "5 points" where you can choose various directions and head for Walker, Poland, or Big Bug mesa. 5 Points is a saddle where you can look north and south for several miles.
I wanted to scout towards Walker road since maps show a trail heading over Union Mt from it. I had only been this way once in a Jeep 3-4 years ago...but any trail was long gone. This road looks to have been widened in the last decade or so, and that probably wiped out what was an older trail. The area towards Walker is much like Senator...home to summer homes for the wealthy.

So back to the 5 points for out last break. By this time the sun had disappeared behind Union and the temps were dropping fast. Enough that we regretted not bringing coats. Fortunately, I always keep some clothes in my gear so the kids were kept warm at least.

The nip in the air was unmistakable: fall is coming. Shadows grow long sooner. Leaves change. Wood smoke drifts over the hills. Time to trade those shorts for a warm jacket, and that string trimmer for a chainsaw.
Up FS 261 we head as the sun fades...but leaves orange hues on the lower Bradshaw's for the moment. I take in this view during an emergency potty break for the kids. As we load them back up, a strange noise in the distance grows closer and it takes me a few moments to identify. The coyote's are on the hunt...their eerie cries echoing off the canyons as I fire up the Pioneer and chug up Union mt and across to Senator hwy where the real cold hits.
Around the switchbacks as who knows what looks on from the darkness. Back to the vehicle. Another successful adventure for all including my niece, who had a blast.

Temps would warm back up, so our taste was brief. But it will hit again soon, and I hope I will be out in the middle of nowhere to enjoy it.