Friday, February 12, 2010

Back country exploration: New river canyon trail.


 Views from peaks are spectacular. 


On February 9th, I awoke at around 7:30 to the sound of  microwave chimes, showers, and doors thudding gently against their stops as my wife prepares for work. After her departure, my attempts at slumber are further thwarted by buses and other traffic just outside. Might as well get up....


I'm at an intersection in life. I quit my work at an auto repair shop just before Christmas due to a lack of business so great that it failed to even pay for gas for the daily commute. Frustrating work, and I decided that if I didn't get a job where I wanted ( Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealership ) it was time to change fields. One month and few phone calls later, I am investigating something in the computer field. At first the feeling of walking away from the field as a failure in what I wanted to accomplish was prevalent, but as I step back and take a look at the BIG picture as to where I want to be, and what would make me happy, I'm at peace with my decision.It's a bit ironic that all this free time has allowed me to finally do some desert exploring....one of the main reasons I wanted to be here to begin with. 
Into the kitchen for a microwave breakfast biscuit and a look out the west window. The weatherman said that most of the rain would be to the south east of Arizona. He's wrong as usual, and rain clouds completely surround Phoenix,. the lone exception being a break in cloud cover just big enough for the morning sun to illuminate the White Tanks mountains. Inspiring enough to prompt me to explore a bit.


A shower, some bottled water, and a guide book. GPS. Camera. Mountain dew and cookie crumb doughnuts for a trail lunch, and my 180,000 mile 5-Speed 97 XJ Cherokee ( dead stock ) is saddled up and ready to go. I've been thinking about doing a trail a few miles up I-17 at exit 236, known as Table Mesa road ( I believe this trail is also referred to simply as "Table Mesa". Please correct me if I'm wrong  ). My guide, once again, is Charles Wells' Arizona Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails. Mileages are taken from this, and were confirmed as accurate with my odometer. The book rates this trail as moderate-suitable for "aggresive stock SUV's with high clearance". A stock Cherokee can do it with little trouble, but  the new breed of "crossover" style 4x4's won't be able to make it without damage. Pay attention to the next paragraph.


As it's name implies, the trail follows the New River Canyon with a few trips over various mountains, then returning to run parallel to the river for some miles before turning east(ish) out of the canyon for a final time. You wind up on what turns into Cave Creek road. This trail's location next to the new river ( with 3 river crossings ) means that the trail gets changed every time a hard rain comes through. You must pay attention. I encountered a section where the trail was COMPLETELY washed away to the tune of a 6-7 foot drop-off into the river bottom ( there was a by-pass ). If you were to be hauling and/or be traveling at night, it could be a disaster. Likewise, this trail could be rendered impassable at several points by hard rains, so it would be wise to consider that you might have to return the way you came in. I also saw some forum talk of this trail, and it seems that it might have deteriorated recently due to the hard rains we've had. Also note that although this river is apparently usually dry ( like most around Phoenix ), I encountered water on my first visit here. Keep in mind that water acts as a lubricant on your tires, and reduces traction.


Reset your odometer as you get off the exit at Table Mesa and head east. You will notice signs telling you that you are accessing this trail through private land, so don't throw your trash down as everybody else has. At 1.1 miles turn left through the gate. Leave it as you found it. Continue to the first river crossing at 1.8 miles. This is where the trail really begins. This is also the location of items of note...
 
It's worse than pics show,  but this is as bad as it gets.




1. The first and most difficult obstacle on this trail ( as of this writing ) in the form a short rock field. This sets the tone for this trail, as there are several such crossing scattered throughout.

 
Why? Ain't no way for no soldier to die... 



2. The burned out carcass of a TJ Wrangler! I would suspect it was stolen....
 
I scratch my head in amazement it how easy this was while Cherokee mourns it's fallen brother.


I was fearful of crossing the rocks here without damage or getting stuck, but felt that it was quite possible. I moved 2 rocks, but this proved unnecessary, and my fears were unfounded as usual as I didn't even so much as touch a skidplate to rock. Just remember to take lines that keep the rocks out of the vitals ( oil pan, transfer case, tranny and diffs ) in the center of your vehicle. After stopping to take pics of the Wrangler, I crossed the river, immediately encountered what was a long narrow mud pit, and a area where the trail had been washed away exposing some culverts.
 
  
Top- Trail was washed out a bit after 1st river crossing. Bottom-Gravel pit at 2.8



You travel slightly uphill  and at 2.8 miles you will encounter a gravel pit that you travel to the left of. You then go back down into the canyon ( nice views of the river here ). At 4.3 miles you cross a cattle guard next to a gate where the Tonto National forest begins. You turn right onto FS 41 and travel up hill. Road worsens very slightly here. You will come to a clearing at 5.2 with a nice view of what looks like Cave Creek ( or maybe New River town ). It was a little chilly on this day. The road worsens and you will continue to travel up over the top of the mountain with beautiful views, then back down the steep mountainside via some switchbacks . At the bottom you will cross a narrow feeder wash, round a ridge adjacent to a stunning rock out-cropping.

TOP-Nice views of New River from ridges.
  MIDDLE AND BOTTOM-views from clearing at 5.2
BELOW-trail switchbacks down mountainside. 

 

At 7.6 you will encounter the second river crossing. Nothing of note about it today...just some wet sand on the other side followed by another rocky section right up until the third crossing at 7.9 miles. A lifted vehicle could go straight across here, but the wedge shaped rock on the other side of the river might cause body damage on lower vehicles, so I simply drove up the river between two rocks, then turned right onto the other bank.
Immediately after the crossing there is a eroded up hill turn to the right, and then you will travel up the hill a bit. Here is the "tough spot" mentioned in the guide book....a steep, off camber sandy climb with ruts, complete with boulders to right. A stock vehicle could probably make it with some momentum, but the camber pitches your right into the rocks, so there is the likely-hood of body damage if you side slip. It's OK, since there is a by-pass around this section that must have been constructed after the book was written.

 TOP-Rocky section between 2nd and 3rd creek crossing. 
BOTTOM-3rd and final crossing.


For the next few miles the trail travels near the canyon bottom, crosses some rock-strewn washes, and takes you by some spectacular rock formations. At 11.3 you will pass through a gate. At approximately 11.5 you will encounter the wash-out I mentioned earlier. Use caution. Traffic has worn in a bypass through the bushes to the right. Another gate at 11.8. Book mentions a tank and cabin here, but only remnants are left now. A few more rock dips, and the road improves. At 13.7 FS road 37 goes left, you turn right. From here on out this is a 2wd route, with spectacular views of this beautiful and remote area. The road is quite narrow and travels over mountains, so use caution in case you encounter other traffic.
 Beautiful rock formations along river bottom.


After stopping at the top of one of the mountains to eat lunch, and snap some photos of rain showers that had been chasing me all day, the rest of the trail went by relatively fast of pretty good roads. At 19.5 miles you will encounter FS road 24. Turn right. This road eventually passes Cave Creek campground with toilets, and after about 25 miles it will take you into the beautiful and quaint little town of Carefree.
 You'll cross several of these.


I enjoyed this trail quite a bit because it's technical without being life-or-vehicle-threatening, and it takes you through a variety of beautiful desert back country, all while being close to the Phoenix area. Now it's time for me to get back to microwaves....showers...bus noise...
Rain chased me all day ( and made good pics hard ).





Hopefully I won't be able to sleep tomorrow either.


Good luck, and enjoy.